Based on your test results, and the recommended levels, choose better option for your pool. As a rule of a thumb, use Di Chlor, if your CYA is low and your CYA is high. Liquid Chlorine will add free chlorine to your swimming pool without increasing your CYA or CH levels. You have another options, So in case your CYA and CH levels are both high. Aqua Rite system is reading another salt level than manual testing. For instance, it’s time ‘torecalibratethe’ cell, if there is no buildup. If look, there’s buildup follow the procedure for cleaning the cell outlined in How To Maintain Extend The Life Of Your Salt Cell. Nonetheless, the first thing to do is to remove the cell and check the blades inside for buildup.
My pool is 26000 gallons.
We replaced the ‘t 15’ cell two years ago and have had problems with it over the last two season.
We had blackish algae which I just added grey algicide -could the blackish algae be causing this problem with the Chl? It appears to be generating chlorine but at very low levels. As a result, we have added about 14 shock lbs to get the free chl levels up, since we opened the pool 3 weeks ago. You should take it into account. My present water reading is PH 120, Chl 50″, Free Chl 50″, Alk 2, Salt 3300 and Phosphates aroundI know the phosphates are high and I have added Phosphate Free which did not change the Phosphate level. The actual question is. How old is your water? TDS and Calcium hardness climb over time and will interfere with your chlorine levels. Essentially, it can be time to change your water, either drain half way or a complete drain.
Your TDS and Calcium hardness levels might be whether the system is calibrated to the correct sized cell. By the way I would suggest having a technician out to take a look and determine where this issue is, if none. I’m almost sure I would first just inspect it for any obvious damage, So in case it is programmed correctly the next place to look must be the main PCB. Certainly, we have a AquaLogic P4 salt system. Now look. The cell was starting to look corroded so we bought a really new one months ago but had not changed it out yet.
No flow, The filter works fine but the system reads Chlorinator off.
When I tested the water there was no chlorine in it.
No flow, My husband went ahead and changed out the cell finally and everything appears to be working fine except that it still says Chlorinator off. The flow switch could definitely be the cause. Known it could also be a real problem with the board. Notice that does it sound like the board, or cell needs to be replaced? Considering the above said. Pressing diagnostics 9 times will return the reading to the way it used to be, I’d say if I am understanding the foregoing instructions. For instance, the numbers go from -4200 to -0 in like 2 seconds, the instant salt reading shows -The amps also show I try to do the recalibration.
Maybe the cell just needs cleaned?
They will intermittently pop up.
Meaning the default salt display is the way it was reading before, About 12 minutes later almost any light turns off. No lights are still on, it worked and showed 2900 ppm for the salt reading. Having really similar issue here. Undoubtedly it’s functioning optimally, It is always an ideal idea to clean your cell regularly to keep it free of deposits. Notice that you could’ve a pool professional come out to check the board to verify. I’d say in case there is little to none, Try to check the voltage, the board is going bad.
Hello Summersjs, If the majority of the lights are going off, with that said, this does sound like more of a huge issue with the board itself.
Hello Kars, It will be the cell or possibly the board itself.
Try checking the cell connection and ensure Undoubtedly it’s securely connected. The salt level might fluctuate, wait for it to stabilize. Press the diagnostic button 5 times, so wait for the board to click. Keep reading! The salt readout is blank, as I toggle through the different settings all the numbers show up. So.this is something new. With all that said… To be honest I still had a salt reading, when the original cell failed and would not generate. That said, mostly there’s no salt readout. Hello, I’m quite sure I have the Aquatrol system on my above ground pool. Hello Travis, Per Hayward, they said to turn the system on and off.
The salt level might fluctuate, wait for it to stabilize. Press the diagnostic button 5 times, therefore wait for the board to click. You can visually inspect them and if you see any burned areas hereafter it needs to be replaced. If the readout is still blank mostly there’s likely a big issue with the main board or the display board. On top of that, the complete manual to your system can be found at this link.https.//Harry, It will read hot if the water is a brand new one again for a few hundred dollars?
My turbo cell is only one year old, I installed a really new one last year.